HOLY DAYS, HOLIDAYS AND HISTORY IN RUSSIA

I find Russian history fascinating. During the 20^th century the government collapsed twice. What emerged from the rubble both times was something very different from what preceded it. For most of its history Russia was a monarchy and a self-proclaimed Christian nation. The Tsar had complete authority and officially answered to no one. God had put him on the throne. Amid growing unrest in 1905 the Tsar finally agreed to having a constitution. Ultimately, however, the constitution was not enough to calm the troubled waters. In 1917 the followers of Vladimir Lenin drove the Tsar out of power and eventually murdered him and his family. What eventually developed was The Union of the Soviet Socialist Republics, which was officially atheist. Then in December of 1991 the USSR either collapsed or was dismantled, depending on your perspective. What emerged was a democracy (of sorts). I have written about the decade of the 1990s in Russia before, so I won’t go over that horrible decade again. In the 2018 elections Russians again went to the polls to vote on their leaders with teams of international observers on hand. In its long history, Russia has had only three men who were elected by the people as heads of state. Russia now has no officially state sponsored religion, although Orthodox Christianity clearly has the most adherents and the most influence on public policy.

This varied history has left holidays a difficult thing for some of us outsiders to understand. In fact, I think even some Russians are confused about their own holidays. It’s the interplay between national and religious observances that makes things confusing. In one sense it is similar to America where most holidays originated either as religious observances, e.g., Christmas, or from significant national events, e.g., July 4. It’s just in Russia things are way more complicated.

The first weekend in November demonstrated my difficulties. As we prepared to go to Liturgy on Nov. 4, my wife reminded me it was the day of observance for the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God. This harks back to Russia’s Tsarist past when religion and politics were wrapped together. (I’ll address the basic issue of icons in Orthodoxy in my next blog.) Kazan had been conquered in 1552 by Ivan IV (aka Ivan the Terrible), but it was not culturally Russian. The Kazan Khanate was predominantly Muslim, and they were not happy about the Russian/Christian takeover, especially when the Church established a Diocese there the next year. Further, in 1559 there was a terrible fire in the city, and the Muslims blamed the Christians. When the Rurik dynasty came to an end in 1605, however, the “time of troubles” began in Rus. There was no Tsar, and the aristocratic families battled intensely with each other. It was practically a civil war. The Polish aristocrats thought this would be a good time for an invasion. Patriarch Hermogenes was taken into custody. He was able to send out messages to the Russian public, however. In those messages he told the Russian populace they must stop fighting each other and defend the land and the Orthodox faith.

A little girl in Kazan kept insisting she had visions from God, and the Icon of the Holy Theotokos (Virgin Mary) was in the ashes somewhere in the city. Church leaders dismissed the “dreams” as meaningless. The situation further deteriorated, however, so at the continued insistence of the little girl, a search was done and the icon was found. A copy of the icon was taken to Moscow where the Poles were inside the Kremlin. Upon its arrival, the soldiers, heeding the messages of the Patriarch, fasted and prayed for three days, after which the Poles were easily driven out. November 4 is the day when all the Russian Orthodox Churches join together to venerate this icon.

I’ll blame the fact that I’m American for forgetting just how important this day is in the Russian Orthodox Church. When we arrived for Liturgy on that Sunday, I was quickly “educated” on its importance, however. We did not arrive on time for the beginning of the Liturgy. When I opened the door to enter the church, I could not get in. It was packed. I don’t mean crowded; I mean there were so many people we could not get inside the door. In the Russian Orthodox Church we stand during the Liturgy. There are a couple of benches over by one wall for those who, because of age or infirmity, cannot stand, but everyone else stands. They were standing literally up to the door. We retreated to the Sunday School building until a few people left, and we were able to enter. (In the Russian Orthodox Church the Liturgy is formal, but there is an informality about people entering and leaving at various times. The Liturgy lasts about 3 hours.) We remained for the completion of the Liturgy and enjoyed a wonderful Trapeza (meal) afterwards.

It was interesting for me to be a part of that Liturgy. I noticed several young ladies who were wearing the traditional dress of ancient Rus. I find those bright long dresses and head coverings fascinating and beautiful. As we were leaving I heard them discussing a concert in the village that afternoon. Back in Luga, my father-in-law later told me when he drove through town there was a Procession of the Cross. He had to wait quite some time because the police had stopped traffic in the center of town for those participating in the long procession.

That evening we were invited to Oksana’s parents for the observance of “Unity Day,” another component of this complex holiday. After the Bolsheviks took over, they obviously could not allow a holy day commemorating an Icon of the Holy Theotokos, which supposedly brought victory to Russia. Yet people hate having a holiday taken from them. So in 1918 they made November 7 a national holiday celebrating the anniversary of the October Revolution. It was actually October 25, but that was back when Russia was still on the Julian calendar. When the change was made to the Gregorian calendar, October 25 on the Julian calendar is Nov. 7 on the Gregorian calendar. (The Russian Orthodox Church is still on the Julian calendar since that was the calendar used at the time of Jesus.) So every year on November 7 there would be military parades and performances to commemorate the beginning of what became a Communist nation made up not only of Russia but of all the Republics. They were all now united as one—at least politically.

After Communism fell in 1991 there was again a problem. It didn’t seem appropriate to celebrate the beginning of what became Communism when Russia was neither any longer Communist nor joined to the other Republics. In 1995 Yeltsin renamed Nov. 7 “Moscow Liberation Day,” which recalled the liberation of Russia from the Polish invasion. Still he kept the date of the October Revolution and did not mention the name of the icon. It had both a military and quasi-religious dimension. The next year he changed the name once more, this time to “The Day of Concord and Reconciliation.” In 2004 Vladimir Putin announced the creation of two holidays. November 4 was named “Unity Day.” It commemorates the joining together of all Russia to drive out the invaders. Churches, of course, focus on the veneration of the Kazan icon. Others, like my in-laws, focus more on the unity of the Russian people–fortunately they included their American son-in-law! November 7 became an exclusively military holiday honoring all those serving in the military without reference to the Revolution. This year November 5 was the 100 year anniversary of the establishment of the Intelligence Division of the military so the focus was more on that. So the five Oksana, the kids and I commemorated the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God in our morning worship service. Then we celebrated unity in Russia with my in-laws, sharing a family meal early that evening. On November 7 Gabriel went with his grandmother to the observances for the Military Intelligence here in Luga. A photographer snapped his photo, and he got his picture in the local paper with a Russian soldier instructing him on the proper use of a military rifle. Pretty heady stuff for a ten-year old boy.

Further, there are a few here who still honor the October (Bolshevik) Revolution on November 7. I saw a picture of a group in St. Petersburg and heard there was a closed party in Moscow. Yet the government and press pretty much ignore it. Neither Putin nor any of his spokespersons even mentioned it to my knowledge. I was surprised I didn’t get any fliers or announcements from members of the local Communist group who are usually outside our building on significant days for Communists. The folks who want to observe it are free to do so without anyone protesting. They don’t protest us going to church either.

As far as the developing political activities now, since being in Russia I’ve been inside the local polling station on election day and read articles by those outsiders from various countries who have been here as official “observers.” All I saw looked very normal, and I never read anything by the observers suggesting that the elections were fraudulent. Several of the actual observers expressed surprise at the order and efficiency of the events they saw. The only accusations I have heard are from American media members or politicians who were not here. This is not to say everyone in Russia is happy, and no one ever complains about the political system. Pensioners are still angry about proposed changes in the retirement, especially moving the age to 65 for males and 60 for females. The last Levada Poll I saw showed Putin’s approval rating had dropped to 67%. That’s far below the 80% he had been getting, but it is still significantly higher than any Western leader.

As I write this there are still strong protests going on in America over who really won in some of the “mid-term” elections. The Georgia’s governor race is still being reviewed, and Florida has become so confused I really can’t follow all that is going on. The Democratic Party regained a majority in the House of Representatives, and their leadership has announced more investigations into Trump, his tax returns, and, of course, the so-called Russian collusion from over two years ago. The Mueller-led investigation of the 2016 presidential election is supposedly going to end soon, but no official announcement has been made. There are those who still firmly believe that election was fraudulent, although I hear many reports saying Mueller has not come up with anything on Trump and the Russians. After the Trump White House recently banned a CNN reporter, the network filed suit against the President. It seems certain the “war” between him and much of the “main stream media” will continue. Neither group trust the other side, and the results will be contested no matter who is declared the winners.

That first Sunday in November is one that stands out because it illustrates one of the things I find so interesting and impressive about Russia. As I’ve admitted before in blogs, I can’t always stay focused during the Liturgy, because I cannot understand Church Slavonic. So sometimes I look around. I look at some of the old folks and have gotten to know a few of them a little better. They lived as believers in a Communist country. They tried to worship and pray and live the life of faith as best they could in a country which—to say the least—strongly disapproved of such things. They sneaked and had their children baptized; they worshiped wherever and whenever they could. They had little opportunity for the public expression of their faith. Some have said the Communist time was a time when their faith was purified and strengthened.

On the other hand, sitting with my in-laws at the meal afterwards I thought of those who, like them, were members of “The Party.” They believed what they had been taught. They worked hard and were loyal to their country. My father-in-law served his career in its Army with honor. Then it all fell apart. They learned about the underside of their history. They found out things of which they had never been aware. Yet they moved on and adjusted their thinking accordingly. They still value hard, honest work and a commitment to family and community. They don’t decry those who were on “the other side” of things. They get along fine with those from church. My father-in-law had no complaints about having to wait for the Procession of the Cross to pass. I think he respected it. In some strange way I sense a mutual appreciation of the others. They look for common ground. Despite the fringe movements (who claim far fewer adherents than the West pretends), I see this virtue being passed on in Russia. They accept the fact that not everyone saw or sees things the way they do. They don’t hold others accountable for what they did not or could not know. They do not spend their lives in regret or shouting and shifting the blame. A traumatic past here has forged this powerful virtue. I am in hopes it is one the citizens of my own country can still yet recover. Before it is too late.

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SETTLING DEEPER INTO LIFE IN RUSSIA

We have finally returned to our (somewhat) normal life in Russia after our trip to America this summer. The boys are back in school, Oksana is teaching two days a week, and I am reading, keeping up my Greek, studying my Russian and doting over Marina Grace. As I have said, we all really missed America and our family and friends there after we got back. What we did there, who we saw, and what we miss kept coming up in conversations. Over time, however, we realized nothing good could come from thinking that life back in America would be just like it was on our three week summer vacation. It would be back to school and work. So we refocused on our life here while still being thankful for our extended American vacation. We also made a couple of decisions.

Our first decision was a big one: We decided to buy a house. We knew our rental apartment was too small and had looked at a few houses both here in Luga and in the nearby village where we go to church. We never got very serious about any of them. After we got back to Russia Oksana found one on-line that had plenty of space and was at a very good price. It was not complete, however. The family had been living in it but had decided to build a second floor and were in the process of doing that when apparently the husband died. (The lady just said she was now alone. We didn’t know if that meant he left or died.) So the upstairs is “roughed in,” but no interior walls are up. They were adding a vinyl exterior so that is also not complete. It’s a little ways down a dirt street, but the houses in the area are nice, and it is surrounded on three sides by a forest. Oksana has a close friend whose husband is a builder. In fact, he specializes in remodeling and restoration. He is a very nice person and volunteered to go with us to inspect the structure. As I said, this one has plenty of room for us, a bit over 2,000 sq. ft. The rooms downstairs are quite large. Our builder friend carefully inspected everything and afterwards told us it is a well-built house, and also the biggest house for that price that he’s seen. He gave us an approximate estimate of how much it would take to complete the work, and since it was well within our budget, we decided to buy it.

I couldn’t take out a mortgage in Russia because I do not have any income here. Obviously, Oksana does not make enough teaching part-time to qualify for a loan either. This summer my “financial guy” in America, whose company has my IRA, told me that one part of my retirement account is invested in a manner his company is not able to continue managing since I no longer live in S.C. We knew there was a possibility that we might buy a home here so while we were in America I transferred that money to my Sberbank account here in Russia. Plus, the Russian government gives money to families who have children if they are making a significant purchase “to improve their living conditions” or will use the money to continue the education of their children. It is called “maternal capital.” So we signed the papers to purchase the home and then applied for the maternal capital to be transferred to the seller (it’s all electronic – you never see the money). The home is ours, but the present owner does not have to be out of the home until she gets our maternal capital deposited to her bank account, which usually takes anywhere from one to two months. Russia does not give “tax breaks” for children. Income tax in Russia is a flat 13%. Anybody can, however, apply for government funds if they have children. Russia’s population was decimated after WWII (“The Great Patriotic War” as it is called here). Then the birth rate fell again dramatically during the Yeltsin presidency since people simply could not afford children. Now the government is very “friendly” toward families with children, and help is available. The maternal capital is not a loan. It is money the government gives to support families with children.

Since it looks like we’ll be here for some time I also decided I need to work even harder on my Russian language skills. Everyone else in the family, even four year old Marina Grace, speaks Russian well. I have studied Russian on my own for several years, but I have never taken an actual classroom course in Russian. So I decided to take a one week “immersion” course offered by a school in St. Petersburg. I checked around and the school had a very good reputation. So I signed up for 30 lessons in one week. It was one-on-one with the teacher, a Russian lady named Anastasia who is from St. Petersburg. For six hours a day I studied and spoke in Russian. No English was used at all. I was not allowed to say anything in English, and she explained everything in Russian only. The bulk of the time was spent in a class room practicing speaking, listening to her and recorded dialogues, reading and doing some grammar. Three afternoons we ventured out into the streets. We went to the Russian Museum, the Hermitage, and St. Isaac’s Cathedral. As in the classroom, during our visits we spoke only in Russian. That was particularly difficult. There were so many things to see, but she was constantly asking me questions and explaining things in Russian. So they were not just leisurely trips to important sites. I was seeing Russian history and practicing the Russian language all at the same time. I stayed in the apartment we rent for Roman. Oksana, Gabriel and Marina Grace were back in Luga. That was tough. I had to navigate around the big city all on my own. (More on that below.)

The week was probably my most difficult one since being here. I felt very out of place without the family, and I could actually feel my brain get tired from being forced to communicate in another language for hours. I do believe it was a productive week, however. It forced me to do things I would not otherwise do. As anyone who has ever tried to be proficient in communicating in any foreign language knows, it is a big move from short sentences in a workbook to actually understanding “native speakers.” The speed makes every word seem to run together. Second, fear of making mistakes is a constant enemy. I think this is the main reason children learn languages so much easier than adults. They simply do not mind making mistakes. They want to communicate. Gabriel never worried about it. Hence, he learned very easily. He just kept speaking it until he got it right. In this course, I didn’t have a choice. I spoke, and I made mistakes. I listened and often did not understand. The teacher was very patient. She knew what she was doing, and she would repeat whatever I asked her to repeat—as many times as I asked. She never seemed frustrated. Also, she had a very high quality sound system, and we listened to dialogues of different Russian speakers. I did not finish the course under any delusions that I am now fluent. I do, however, have a greater grasp of my weak points and how Oksana and I can work together in the home so that with practice I’ll keep improving. I asked Anastasia about any resources or programs of study that would help. She said I speak well, my vocabulary is pretty good and I have a basic understanding of Russian grammar. But, she said emphatically, “You need to practice, practice, practice!”

One evening while I was in St. Petersburg I met a fellow “cultural refugee” for supper at a restaurant near the school. We had met on-line in discussions of issues pertaining to the Russian and American relationship. I told him I had been looking forward to asking him questions I always get asked, e.g., “Why did you move to Russia?” and “What is it about life in Russia you like?” At one point in the conversation he said, “It’s just we don’t have the stress of living in America.” Strangely, I knew what he meant—and what he didn’t mean. I knew he didn’t mean that life in Russia is stress free. Of course, there is stress living here. Learning the language is stressful; living in an environment without the support of friends and family from America is stressful. Bad things happen, things break, etc.

Life is simpler here for us, however. There is no way we could live on my salary in America. The house we bought would be at least three times the cost in South Carolina. (And more than that in other parts of the country.) The stresses of work, fatigue and time pressure are nowhere near what they were there. If we get sick, we don’t stress over medical bills. If something needs to be repaired it doesn’t cost the proverbial “arm and leg.” Clearly, the political debates are nowhere near as intense and divisive. I realize that the Western press presents this as evidence Putin is a dictator and everyone is afraid to criticize him. The truth is, as I have said many times before, issues are discussed here without the blather. My friend and I talked about how we have been involved in discussions and debates with people we know here in Russia about politics and other matters. Neither of us had ever had the experience of people getting angry at us or anyone else involved in the debates. People toast friendship and get back to the meal or whatever they were doing.

I would like to reiterate something else I have mentioned in passing before. The fact that Russia and America have been in a tense relationship now for quite some time does not mean those of us who live here worry about that impacting our relationship with Russian friends or even strangers. After Anastasia and I had visited the Russian Museum the other day we had a long walk through a park with which I was unfamiliar. She continued her “teacher” role even in our conversation in the park, so I had to focus on that. After a while our time was up. She pointed me to where I needed to go to get back to the school and on to my metro station. Unfortunately along the way there was construction, and I was sent on side streets and could not find a way to get back to the area I knew. I headed in the general direction I thought I needed to go. Two things were against me. I’m a small town guy and any big city confuses me. I’m pretty good finding my way through fields and forests, but buildings look the same to me. Second, it was very cloudy and without the sun I have trouble figuring out my directions. Soon, I was lost!

I continued walking and stopped one lady and explained I needed to get to a Metro Station. She told me to continue the direction in which I was going and what street I needed to look for. When I got to that street I couldn’t figure out which direction I should go. I asked a young man (late teens, early twenties maybe) who said he didn’t know. I thanked him anyway and continued my walk. A couple of minutes later he came running up from behind me to tell me that he remembered the general location of the station. He pointed me in the right direction and named the building I should start toward. He tried to speak English, but I understood his Russian better than his English. When I got there the entrance to that Metro was closed! No one was allowed in that station for some reason. I was worried now. I walked a bit further and then stopped a middle aged man about to cross the street. I explained my situation, and I asked him to speak slowly because my Russian was not very good. He pointed and said in English, “Go that way. See blue building. Left.” I found the station and made it home!

When I was meeting my friend for supper the next evening I could not find the restaurant. (Turns out I had walked past it, but it was a small place with no sign out front.) After crossing the street and going on further, I didn’t know what to do. I asked a young lady who had stepped outside for a smoke if she knew where it was. She said she had never heard of it, so I started to move on. She spoke to me (in Russian of course) and said, “Wait. Let me look it up on my phone.” I paused while she put out her cigarette and looked up the place on the phone and showed me on the map. All these encounters took place on a busy crowded street. I openly told them I was a foreigner, and I think all of them figured I was American since two of them used a couple of English words. Yet all of them stopped and took time to help me the best they could. Of the four people I asked for help not one of them was rude and all helped me the best they could. This is not some folksy small town. This is a city of about 6 million people. You will understand when I hear the the U.S. Department of State issue a warning that Russia is not a safe place for Americans to travel, I insist that they are motivated purely by political posturing which has nothing to do with actual knowledge of Russia. If it were so dangerous then this chronically lost meandering American would have had much more to fear and a whole lot more time would’ve been spent trying to get home.

When I got back to Luga Friday night, my father-in-law picked me up at the station. On the short ride through town to our apartment I was very thankful to be back in Luga. I realized how much I like living here. Places and people are now familiar to me. The calmness of this little provincial town reminds me of how calm it used to be in the small towns and the culture in which I was raised back in America many years ago. I know it sounds weird to sound nostalgic about America long ago when talking about life in Russia now, but I sometimes feel that way. I know there were problems, stresses and disagreements back then in America, just as there are in Russia now. There is a difference, however, between cultural stress and constant division and agitation. Whatever one hears on the news, please know that from my experience here and my “worm’s eye” view of things, Russians are not looking for fights and conflicts with Americans. Their political leaders are not trying to stir up feelings of animosity toward Americans within the people here. If they were, I’d perhaps still be wandering around the streets of the big city!

“WHAT WILL THEY SAY IF WE MOVE TO RUSSIA?”

I have mentioned before that when I started writing this blog it was for my friends in America who wanted to know what life in Russia was really like. I have since discovered there are quite a number of people interested in Russia and some of them are considering moving here as well. I tried to answer several common questions I have received about the practical aspects of moving to Russia in my last blog. Other than the logistical, linguistic and vocational issues I discussed, the possibility of moving to Russia can also create tension or misunderstandings with family members and friends. Why is that so? How will family and friends respond to their leaving? How does one establish new relationships in another culture?

It isn’t hard to understand those who transfer here because of work. It doesn’t happen often since the sanctions, but some companies still do business here. Some of us have married a Russian. That doesn’t make it likely we’ll live in Russia, however. I’m fairly certain there are more Russian/American families who choose to stay in America rather than settle in Russia. Having a Russian wife made me more interested in Russia, but it was far from being a factor that led us to move here. But what about those who just “pick up and move”?

The first thing anyone who starts talking openly about it will notice are the reactions they get when they tell people that they are thinking of moving to RUSSIA. If you suddenly inherit a large sum of money or win the Lottery, and you tell everyone your family is moving to the Caribbean or the Bahamas or to France, people understand that. (They’ll likely be envious!) If you tell friends you are moving to Canada because you’ve had it with Donald Trump and the political craziness in America, they may not agree, but they’ll understand. But when you say, “We’re thinking about moving to Russia,” they usually don’t understand—at all.

I mentioned in my last blog that one of the things that irritates me most is the wrong information being spread about Russia. Almost all you hear about Russia is negative, whether it comes from the news, politicians or movies. Much of it is also wrong. I still have friends and relatives who are absolutely convinced I am either lying or have been brainwashed when I tell them Russia is a nice place to live. They have never read one speech by Vladimir Putin or listened to any of his press conferences, but they are absolutely sure that he is an evil dictator. They’ve heard it on the news many times. How did we get to this point? Most people who follow closely know the Military Industrial Complex has its agenda. They know painting Russia as a threat helps get the defense budget high enough to buy and sell more weapons. They have lots of money and influence which they can use to demonize Russia. Most also understand that some politicians try to paint Russia as evil to generate votes or blame an election loss on. I’d like to do a brief background going back further, however. Why is there such a disconnect between what people hear daily about Russia and what people like me who live here say about it?

First, there is, of course, the history of the Cold War. Everything I heard growing up about the USSR (or just “Russia”) was about how awful it was. The leaders were dictators who didn’t care about their people. There was no free press because those despots censored the news to fit how they wanted the people to think. In my home region back in the “Bible Belt” we heard a lot about how “the godless Communists” excluded God and religion from public life. I still hear from people who carry this image of Russia in their minds today.

After the “fall” (or “dismantling”) of the USSR things changed for a time. Boris Yeltsin was elected, and American leaders declared brighter days were ahead for Russia. During the decade of the 90s (about which I have written), the U.S. stepped in to show the Russians how to do democracy. President Bill Clinton convinced the IMF to pour a lot of money into Russia, and he sent American experts and advisers of all sorts into Yeltsin’s Russia to “help” the country become a democracy—just like America. The reports from people who were supposed to know were glowing. The Pulitzer prize-winning journalist, David Remnick, said in 1997, “The Russian prospect over the coming years and decades is more promising than ever before in history.” The economist, Richard Ericson, said in 1998, “The guarded optimism of the economists….seems justified; the ‘holistic’ transformation of Russia will continue.” In March of the same year, Vice-President Al Gore said, “Optimism prevails universally among those who are familiar with what is going on in Russia.” (The quotes are all from Failed Crusade, by Stephen F. Cohen. The first part of this book is a thorough discussion of these wrong evaluations.)

The quotes above come from less than a year before the Russian economy completely collapsed in 1998. A lot of Russians were literally starving. Despite Clinton having convinced the IMF to send $10 millions to Russia in the mid-90s when “my friend Boris” (as Clinton called him) was running for re-election, over 50% of the Russian population lived below the poverty line, which was $45/month in 1998. The majority of American journalists, politicians, economists, and scholars were completely wrong about Russia. When confronted with the truth of how bad it was going they indicated it was temporary and were dismissive of the awful suffering of the Russian population, repeating and old saying from Joseph Stalin: “You have to crack eggs to make an omelette.” It didn’t seem like “cracking an egg” to Russians living here; it was “the collapse of modern life for us,” as one Russian writer put it. I’ve talked to many Russians personally. Their experience of the Americans “helping” Russia was awful.

President Boris Yeltsin had done everything the Americans asked, but American democracy did not work in Russia for a lot of reasons. First, most of the money received went into the pockets of a whole new generation of “oligarchs,” not to meet the needs of the Russian people. Another factor was the “experts” often lacked knowledge of Russian history, traditions, and character. Russia could not “jump out its history” and be like America. Cohen points out that many journalists who came here then to report on what was supposedly happening didn’t even know the language, let alone the history of the country. They saw rich people in Moscow doing well and thought the whole country was like that. Authentic investigative reporting on Russia was a rarity.

Vladimir Putin was initially praised by Clinton when he became president. With the passing of time, however, Putin came to trust American leaders less and less. He would not follow their dictates. He moved the country in a different direction, especially after George W. Bush deceived him and pulled out of the IMF treaty. To make a long story short, Russia did much better in every way when it stopped doing the bidding of the Americans. Better days for Russia did lie ahead, but that was because Putin pulled the plug on American paternalism. Those experts, journalists, and politicians either had to admit they were wrong OR they could make “Putin’s Russia” and even the Russian people look as bad as possible. Most chose the latter option, and they still stick with it. The campaign to demonize Russia was and is a coordinated effort.

There is also the issue of nationalism. I have just finished reading, The Tragedy of Great Power Politics (Updated Edition), by the eminent political scientist John Mearsheimer. He is a proponent of “offensive realism” in understanding international relations. One subject he devotes a lot of space to is nationalism. We are social creatures by nature. We tend to think in terms of “our group.” At an international level many of us who live in powerful countries tend to think our country is powerful because, well, its government and perhaps its people are better. Many citizens in the United States have come to believe that, despite our problems, we are “exceptional.” Meirsheimer points out that by exceptional we really mean “superior.” Our belief in individual freedoms and unfettered capitalism sets us apart in the minds of many Americans. If we go to war, it is for a good cause. We “won” the Cold War because our capitalism was superior to their Communism or socialism (unfortunately many use those terms interchangeably). We were also more virtuous than the amoral Communists.

Mearsheimer reminds us that before all the current Russia bashing we had joined with the Communist leader, Joseph Stalin, during WW2. Roosevelt started calling him “Uncle Joe,” so it would be acceptable to the American people for him to work with Stalin. FDR admitted he actually gave in to several of Stalin’s wishes to get what he wanted from Stalin. That frequently is the nature of political diplomacy. Russia is no longer Communist, and Vladimir Putin is nothing like Joseph Stalin, but many politicians and members of the press must convince the American people otherwise. Roosevelt got along quite well with Uncle Joe and met with him on several occasions. FDR was elected four times as president of the United States, and his popularity was still in good standing after meeting with Stalin on several significant occasions. Donald Trump recently had one summit with Vladimir Putin, and he was roundly condemned by the press and even called “treasonous” by the former CIA director. Ideology has nothing to do with the way Russia is portrayed in the American press or political circles. It’s a different agenda altogether. If one considers it appropriate to join hands with Stalin and totally impermissible even to talk with Putin, then ideology isn’t the key ingredient.

Many Americans want to feel a sense of pride in our country. That is not uncommon or necessarily wrong. Yet, in my opinion, there is a lot of “cognitive dissonance” among Americans right now. We have trouble finding consistency between what we have always believed about our country and the reality we are experiencing. I think that Donald Trump was elected, in part, because many Americans found “traditional” politicians out of touch and unresponsive when it came to what they cared about. Further, there is little doubt that many now distrust the mainstream media. There is no longer a Walter Cronkite who can convince us “and that’s the way it is” at the completion of a newscast. Liberals decry Fox News as “unbalanced and unfair,” and conservatives cry “fake news” at other MSM outlets. Both groups believe censorship and distortion are alive and well in the American media.

I know many religious people in America who are fearful that one can no longer talk openly about matters of faith in “the public square.”A high school football coach near Seattle, Wa. was fired for refusing to stop taking a private moment for a quick personal prayer on the football field after games. They aren’t asking Congress to establish their religion; they just sense “the free exercise thereof” is being taken away. The Soviet Union believed it was the responsibility of the State, not the parents, to decide the values children were taught. One of the reasons homeschooling is becoming more popular in America is because some parents see this philosophy at work in America. In short, many fear what was so wrong with the USSR has invaded their American experience. Thus, the “powers that be” have to work harder to make Russia even more evil. Russia is a convenient distraction from the domestic divisions. It has proved to be one topic that unites most Republican and Democrats.

In an age with the communication capacities like we now have, it is hard to keep intellectually curious people living in the dark, however. The people I know who are interested in Russia, whether they want to move here or not, are doing their own research. They seek out and find sources that they believe are providing trustworthy information. They’ve concluded that most of what is said about Russia is wrong, and they’re not afraid to face the situation in America as it really is.

So what does all this information mean to people who want to move to Russia or who are open to learning more? It probably means that some friends, co-workers or even members of your extended family will look at you differently. There are also some Russian ex-pats who left Russia many years ago who will tell you how bad it is. Clearly many won’t agree with or like your conclusions. Some simply will not understand your possible move or your views no matter what you say, and some of those will express their disapproval strongly. Others will understand to some degree, but still can’t grasp how a family just leaves what they have in America. I have had people who have never lived anywhere else but America tell me emphatically that America is the greatest place on earth to live. Families and friends vary, of course. Nevertheless, most I talk to who are seriously considering moving here have had “blow back” from some of the people they care about. So be ready. Furthermore, know that if you do move, the longer you’re gone, the more distant you probably will feel. The pulse of everyday life in Russia is not the same. It will be hard to convey that to some good friends back in America.

On the other end of the move be prepared that friendship with Russians won’t happen overnight. Again, there are exceptions, but “friendship” to Russians describes a very close relationship. They do not use the term casually like we Americans do. Becoming friends among Russians takes time and trust. If you are not fluent in Russian, it may take even longer. I also mentioned at the end of my last blog that one of the things I miss the most is having long comfortable conversations with my old American friends. While we were home for those three weeks in August I got to meet up with several of them. I indicated I didn’t get as many questions about Russia as I had expected, but we chatted for long periods about a variety of subjects. When we got back here, I realized how much I have missed that. Here is the quandary: I can’t talk to Russians about college football or a number of my favorite subjects. My alma mater Clemson is undefeated and among the top teams in the country right now! That means absolutely nothing to my Russian friends. On the other hand, there are a number of my American friends that I really can’t talk to about Russia and my life here. Living outside the United States is simply not something they can imagine or about which they have any interest in learning. My point here: be prepared to feel something of an “outsider” in both places.

The good news is things do improve here with time. As I said in the last blog, Russians will be interested in you. It is not that they, as a group, simply do not want to get to know you. They will want to ask you questions about America. They are very interested in learning your thoughts. Eventually they will want to “pick your brain” about what you think of Russia and other topics. These conversations can be quite fun and often lead to a lot of laughter. And Russian friends are very dependable and will want to help you in any way they can. Most are honored that you’re here. Just be prepared that it may take a while. Also, you can find friends from the “homeland” here. We communicate on-line and many get together as they discover those living nearby. Don’t try to set up an American “commune,” but don’t be afraid to reach out to other Americans for advice and friendship.

There is another kind of problem with moving here. When you live here you see news reports unlike what one gets from most American news outlets. I’ve mentioned how my own understanding of Syria and Bashar al-Assad has totally changed by seeing reports from other Westerners actually on the ground there. I have also seen how America’s friend Saudi Arabia is doing its best to slaughter the people of Yemen with American weapons, while we paint Iran as evil. Iran has nothing like the history of the Saudis when it comes to violence and oppression. I want my Russian friends to believe the best about America, but the more I learn the more difficult that gets.

The truth is, however, most who are seriously considering moving here already know of most of these potential pitfalls and problems. I rarely hear from anyone wearing “rose colored glasses.” They know there will be difficulties. Many are cautious and even afraid. But they are more afraid of the soaring debt and tumbling ethical and educational standards in America. They have to think through how to make a living and how to form networks here. Yet they also sense something shocking: they sense freedom when they think about moving to Russia. So they’ve started studying the Russian language and learning about life here. Those who can make trips to see with their own eyes and hear with their own ears what it is like in Russia. It’s not for the faint of heart to be sure. Nevertheless, they are people who are willing to take risks. If Russia is what many of us who live here claim it is, then it may be worth the sacrifice to live in such a place and raise families in such an atmosphere.

Clearly, huge numbers of Americans are not interested in moving to Russia. We think no less of those who choose to stay. That is what sometimes gets missed. Many Americans are aware of the problems there but want to stay and work for change. They want to build on those great aspects of America, some of which I have written about in previous blogs. I admire that, although I admit my pessimism. My wife and I concluded that staying and working for change was not where we believed our efforts were best spent. A family will have to sacrifice in order to come to Russia, but other sacrifices will be demanded of you if you stay. I honestly believe a significant number of people are going to be making the same decision we did. For those who will never come, however, I am hoping that you will still have an appreciation for this country, this culture, and these people.

Life in Small Town Russia: Q&A

Periodically I take a break from the heavier topics and write a blog in response to questions I have been asked about life here or details on moving to Russia. The questions usually come from folks who are either interested in moving here or others who are very interested for other personal reasons. So I try to think about the most frequently asked questions and respond. Of course, I am repeating some things I’ve already written. I hate doing that, but my readership sharply increased in January of this year for some reason, and many are Americans interested in details about a move to Russia. I can’t just tell new readers, “Oh, go back and read some of my old blogs—I’ve answered that question at some point.” Please forgive the repetition. I remind you (again) that my life in Russia is small town Russia. Things are different in cities like St. Petersburg or Moscow. Some of my friends here in big cities may want to inform us of some differences.

“What do Russians think of you?” I obviously have to generalize. When I say “Russians,” clearly I don’t mean every single Russian. I am only describing in general what I have noticed as trends. Russians tend to be what I call “quietly inquisitive.” That is, rarely if ever do Russians start asking questions when they first meet me. They like to look, listen and get to know me first. Even then most want very much to avoid being pushy or forward with a foreigner. It would be impolite. But they are incurably curious. Something happened a couple of weeks ago that illustrates my point.

We were taking a taxi back from church. Often we try to speak in Russian, but we were tired and we’d just been in America so we were speaking in English. I was sitting beside the driver, whose expression never changed, and Oksana and the kids were in the backseat. When we arrived at our apartment building Oksana got the credit card out to pay while I took the kids and headed for the door. In a couple of minutes Oksana came and told me to take the kids on up. She’d be there in a few minutes. Sometimes the credit card machine has trouble reading the card in certain locations, so I thought that was it. We were in the apartment some time before she finally came up. I asked why it had taken so long. She told me the driver wanted to talk. He had questions.

He asked why we were speaking English. Oksana told him I was American and we had lived in America 8 years. He said, “Is your husband, uh…is he…” Oksana interrupted and said, “Yes, my husband is a good bit older than I am.” He replied, “No, I don’t care about that. Is your husband a REAL American?” She told him that yes I was born and raised in America. Driver: “Where did his people originally come from to America?” Oksana said, “Well, Great Britain, but that was many, many years ago.” He paused before continuing: “How did you convince him to come live in Russia?” She said, “Well, it was his idea. He brought it up first. We lived in St. Petersburg before we moved to America, so he’s been here.” She said the he had a look of stark confusion for a moment. The idea that an American with no Russian ancestry wanted to live in Luga was a bit much for him. He still wanted to know why. She said, “A number of things. It is very expensive to live in America; health care costs are way beyond what Russians can imagine; the political situation is always stormy, and the kind of values and morals being pushed on kids now by the system is not what we wanted for our children. You know, like all the LGBT stuff.” Then he seemed to understand. He smiled and thanked her profusely for talking with him. It seemed to have made the driver’s day to find out some American guy wanted to move his family to his hometown!

That doesn’t happen every day, but it is not atypical in a small town. Russians, to me anyway, seem torn between the need to be polite and even distant and, on the other hand, they want to know the details about our family. If at all possible, they will usually try to go around me and question Oksana, to make sure they won’t offend “the foreigner” with their curiosity. In our experience this questioning has never been with negative intent or with bad feelings toward us. When they find out I’m an American who wanted to move to Russia, who studies the Russian language and who is Russian Orthodox, they’re very interested.

“Your wife is Russian. What about those of us who don’t have a Russian spouse?” I think it would be harder in some ways, of course. The “bureaucracy” would be the main problem. I mentioned I’ve applied for Temporary Residency since my three-year visa runs out next year, and I’m tired of having to go outside the country every six months anyway. The application process was a pain. Russians love documents, stamps, and anything that looks official. And God forbid you make a mistake and correct it on the form! And the lines you have to wait in to get them to look at your application are awful. Obama once said no one wants to emigrate to Russia, but then Barack Obama never had to wait in line at Immigration Services in St. Petersburg! According to the UN in 2013-15 Russia ranked 3^rd in number of immigrants.

On the other hand, there is help. There are plenty of agencies that will assist you with filling in your forms and translating and notarizing your documents, although there are reasonable costs involved. A notary here is quite different from America. Here they are legally trained, and the one we go to worked as a lawyer for some time. They know how to write up any kind of document and secure the proper stamps.

Naturally, a lot is related to how well you and your spouse speak the language, but there is help if you are not fluent. I have an account with Sberbank, the main Russian bank. The local branch called the other day because Oksana had tried to pay her phone bill directly from my account. I had to verify it. They had someone in the office who was fluent in English speak with me. If you don’t speak any Russian at all, it will be a big problem, of course. But they will work with you even if you struggle and converse at a very basic level. Don’t be afraid to admit you don’t speak Russian well. In some circumstances I start by explaining I am a foreigner and sometimes have trouble with my Russian. It works. The Russians go into “help the poor foreigner” mode, and it usually ends well. I personally have never had anyone act frustrated because I am not fluent in Russian. Just the fact that I can express myself and what I need in Russian impresses them actually. They don’t expect an American to be able to say ANYTHING in Russian. But the principle remains: the better you know Russian, the easier it will be. This is especially true if neither husband or wife is Russian. You MUST be involved in studying the language, but you do not have to wait until you’re fluent.

If you are not comfortable with your Russian I would say do not move to a town where you don’t know any English speakers. If you move to a large city, it might be easier for you in terms of language. I had no trouble when we lived in St. Petersburg because there was usually someone around who spoke English. I frequently was out in the city going to different businesses to teach, and Oksana was never with me. I only knew very basic Russian and did fine.

I think if husband and wife are both learning Russian together that is an advantage. You struggle together and correct each each others mistakes. I have mentioned before I am very comfortable speaking Russian with my doctor because his English is so bad. I don’t mind making mistakes so I speak freely in Russian. When Oksana’s parents were here the other night I understood what was being said, but I held back from speaking because I knew it would slow down the conversation and Oksana can easily translate. So it does help having a spouse who is Russian and is fluent in both languages. Yet it has probably caused me to use her as a crutch and not get more practice.

“How have you adjusted to the climate?” Since I’m from South Carolina both Russians and Americans ask me this question. Actually it is the easiest to answer: It hasn’t bothered me. I sometimes think people don’t believe me when I say that, but it’s true. I told my wife last week Sept. 22 always feels different for me in Russia. It is the first day of Autumn, and it actually feels like Autumn. It was mid-50s (F), kind of gray, and the leaves are changing colors. When it turned Fall in S.C., it never felt like Fall. Summer doesn’t let go that easy! As far as the winter in Russia, I prepare myself emotionally. It’s Russia, and it’s winter—therefore it is cold. They have nice warm winter clothes here, so it’s no big deal. I loved the climate in S.C. I used to water ski, swim, stay on the lake or at the beach as much as possible. But I always got excited those few times it did snow. And even after all these years in Russia, I’m still like a kid at the first snowfall. I love walking in the snow, playing with the kids in the snow, and then coming in to a nice warm apartment and watching it snow more.

“If we move, should I try to move furniture, car, etc., or just buy when I get there?” Shipping things can be expensive and difficult. The difficult part is finding a company in America that actually knows Russian laws and regulations. When we were flying here, for instance, we could have declared “unaccompanied baggage” at customs and saved a load of money. (We’d shipped a pallet of stuff here a couple of weeks before our move, mostly books and some household items.) But nobody told us to declare and we had no way of knowing, so we ended up paying through the nose. Also if the paperwork on the American side is wrong, you’ll end paying a bundle in customs charges when your cargo arrives to Russia. So if you do ship, ask the company if they have ever shipped to Russia. It doesn’t matter how many other countries they’ve shipped to. Ask tough questions, and it will save you money. Also, we did not ship our car, but I was told by a friend who did that he could’ve bought a car the same make and model here for less than he he paid to ship his from America. The truth is Russia wants you to buy a car here, so custom fees are such that you may come out better buying here. We have not purchased a car because taxis and buses are plentiful and cheap. Furthermore, Russian drivers tend not drive defensively. If you do choose to buy a car the options are numerous, but the prices are no lower than in America. My general suggestion is that unless it is something you really have a strong emotional attachment to or something you know you cannot get anywhere else, then don’t ship. As I said, we live in a small town, but there was nothing we needed that we could not get here. It took some time on a couple of pieces of furniture because we had them built, but we got what we wanted.

“What are the hardships of living in a small town in Russia?” I can’t really think of any hardships when it comes to living here. I mentioned the bureaucracy. That is my biggest problem, but I don’t call it a hardship because it isn’t like I have to do major paperwork all the time. Russia has changed in that we have plenty of grocery stores that have all you need at affordable prices; I love going to the open market for food and clothes; there are plenty of regular clothing stores as well. I know the Western media say sanctions are choking Russia and people are struggling. I’ve read several polls here and read a couple of fuller treatments that were carefully researched. In general about 2/3 of Russians say sanctions have not impacted them at all. Some in the lower poverty group (pensioners) say they have been negatively affected, as well as some who are very wealthy (foreign investors, etc.). Russian farmers love the sanctions. Farming is booming in Russia, and prices on produce remain low.

“What are the best things about living in a small town in Russia?” There are several things that come to mind. First, I like the pace of living in a small town. We walk to the market or store or to meet friends. We enjoy our small church. We decided to put our children in public school. There are no Orthodox or private schools here, and we did not know at the time that you can homeschool in Russia. We do not regret it putting them in a public school, however. We have found the school does not try to take over our role as parents. There is a LOT of communication between Gabriel’s teacher and Oksana. Oksana can call her literally anytime she has a question. Gabriel can call us from school if he has a problem. The teacher keeps us well informed. For example, last week he had been sick, but he needed to take a test so we sent him back after missing a day. He did well on the test, but his teacher called Oksana and kindly said, “Gabriel still looks weak to me. I don’t think he needs to be here until he really feels better. I’ll get with you on all missed assignments.” Maybe he would get that attention in a big city school, but I know here he is watched over. He gets home no later than 1:30 (12:30 if there is no P.E.), so he isn’t gone all day. The big payoff was he learned the language so quickly! We also personally know two families here who homeschool. That is becoming more popular here in Russia and is possible in a small town.

Second, the medical care is high quality and low cost. I’ve written praising medical care here several times in my blogs and have answered a lot of private e-mails. We don’t have health insurance because we don’t think we need it. We pay about $7.50 for a regular appointment. Appointments are scheduled for 40 minutes. I have never had to wait in line more than 5 minutes. I’m in an on-line group of Americans living in Russia. I have known one American who had cancer surgery, another one who had major surgery, and both said they couldn’t believe how inexpensive their surgeries and treatments were—not even in the same ballpark as what it would’ve been in America. They were completely pleased with their care. I recently talked on-line with an American in St. Petersburg. We were trying to get together at some point and meet personally. He was recovering from a kidney transplant. It cost him NOTHING! I thought when he said it was free he meant the attending physician or surgeon. No, everything was free. He was applying for citizenship, but it hadn’t come through when his treatments began. I told him in America it took me forever to get the emergency room visits paid for when I had birthed two kidney stones. He got a TRANSPLANT and paid nothing. Also, emergency medical care is free for everyone. The quality and cost of medical care here is a huge benefit.

The other advantage of small town life is the low cost of living in general. We checked on an apartment in St. Petersburg when we moved here because we thought we might want to live there. I can’t remember exactly, but I think it was about four times what we were paying for the same square meters here. The “dachniki” are the people from the big city who come here on the weekends (mostly in the summer). They frequent our grocery stores and market and buy all they can. We have heard them comment on how much cheaper it is here to buy groceries.

I think the adjustment has gone better for us here in a small town. We visit St. Petersburg on business sometimes. I loved living there when it was just Oksana, Roman and me. But with two small children we found it tougher getting around there. Maybe it is just that both Oksana and I were raised in a small town. I’d have trouble in a big city in America! Internet, medicines, and housing are much, much cheaper here than in America.

“How much does it cost to live in your small town?” We live in a two bedroom apartment. It cost about $300 for the apartment and utilities. It is too small (about 60 square meters), but we’re OK for now since Roman our oldest son has an apartment in St. Petersburg. Since we don’t have a car we don’t really have any other major expenses. It is hard to give a figure on how much it would cost a family per month, because different families have different kinds of expenses. For instance, we know a family of six (husband and wife, a grandma and three kids) who live on $700 a month here (they own their property, so they have no mortgage or rent payments, no car payments either). It’s very tight and they have to be very wise about how they spend their money, but they’re managing. A decent house in Luga for a family our size cost about $50,000. Remember: Homes here tend to be smaller than in America. A new house about 1,500 square feet would probably be no more than $60,000. They told me since I am not a citizen I can’t get a loan, however. I took out part of my IRA for when we find the right house.

“What kind of job could I get in Russia to support my family?” Since I don’t actually have an official job here, I’ll preface my remarks with saying my response is based on people I’ve talked to here. The two main areas that seem the most “convenient” is either teaching or some area of information technology. Native speakers of English find it easy to get students here. Here in Luga I could teach several classes at the private English school if I wanted to, and I could get as many private students as I wanted. The downside is the pay is sometimes not all that great, although if you build up your clientele of private students it can be pretty good. Also the i-net has opened up many more opportunities for teaching. Some people in Russia teach students in other countries in addition to their Russian students. I have a couple of friends in IT who moved here from America and still kept their overseas clients. They seem to do fine financially. Those are the two areas I know of in which you don’t really need to be fluent in Russian. Obviously, if your Russian is very good then you have more options with companies.

“Does Putin or the Russian government in general make life hard on Americans there?” No. Some Russian laws are tough as far as immigration goes. Getting residency is aggravating, as I said. If I get my Temporary Residency I’ll be good for 3 years. Then I’ll apply for Permanent Residency, which is good for 5 years. After those 5 years I’d be eligible to apply for citizenship if I’m interested. If one wants to work here, then you have to get a work visa to start with and you have to pass your Russian exam! (There are agencies that help you do that). You’ll also have to live in the oblast (region) where you work. I didn’t bother with a work visa, since I’m retired, so I do not know all the issues involved. I’d think you’d have to have a Russian employer who takes care of things on this end. In general, however, the Russian government does not try to interfere with people’s lives nearly as much as the American government does.

“What is irritating about life in Russia?” The lies told by Western journalists, reporters, and politicians about life in Russia, its government and its people.

“What’s the worst thing about living in Russia?” Missing our family and friends. I have two grown sons living in America. Saying goodbye to them and their families when we came back here after our visit was very painful. I use to work for my brother, so we saw each other a lot. I don’t miss having to go to work, but I do miss our times together. He and his wife were so great to us on our recent visit back home. I miss being able to sit down with old friends and chat in English about everything from college football to the meaning of life.

Nevertheless, we enjoy living in this town and in a culture wherein the values and beliefs we teach our children are not berated by the larger society. Despite what they say, the political situation here is far more stable than in America, and despite what you hear it isn’t run by a dictator. I sincerely grieve over the political and societal fragmentation in America. Mostly I think it is good for me to be here at home for my two younger children. I can do that on my Social Security without all the financial struggles we had in America.

OUR TRIP TO AMERICA: REACTIONS & REFLECTIONS

As I mentioned in my last blog we went back to America for a three week visit. It was the first time we had been back there since we moved to Russia on June 6, 2016. We were able to get together with a lot of family members and quite a few friends. Unfortunately, we couldn’t work it out to visit as many as we had hoped. I couldn’t help analyzing things there as well as doing some “self-analysis.”

Arriving in America after being gone for two years was a bit eerie. We were very excited, but we know the political relationship between our “two worlds” has gotten even more tense than it was when we left. As is commonly known, Russia has been blamed for a lot of what is wrong in America. I wondered how my American friends would respond to us. I’ll sum up some observations on our visit back with friends and family and then go on to some broader “cultural” observations.

First, we thoroughly enjoyed visiting with family and friends. I was prepared for a lot of questions about Russia, but in many cases the questions were very general, e.g., the Russian weather, kids and school, etc. Perhaps I was being overly analytical, but a few friends seemed to steer the conversation away from Russia completely. I was uncertain if that was because they feared it could cause tension if we got off on politics or they were just more interested in talking about old times and how things have been since we left.

On the other hand, we had some friends who were very interested in talking about Russia. After Liturgy at our Orthodox Church, we had a number of people ask a lot of questions. Some were ethnic Russians who left years ago and wanted to hear how things in Russia have changed. Others just wanted to chat about our life here. As I’ve said before, in general Orthodox believers tend to be quite interested in Russia.

One evening I was invited to a friend’s home to meet with “some of the guys” from the church just to let them ask me questions about Russia—about living conditions, politics, or whatever. They were friends who are well read on the issues, and they had some very challenging questions and insightful observations. I don’t know how they felt about it, but I thoroughly enjoyed the evening. It was so refreshing to participate in such an informed discussion and be able to speak freely.

On the political scene I was interested in watching more of the news in America. When I’m in Russia I can view isolated interviews or commentaries on world events, but I can’t just sit down and spend an evening watching different news programs. Watching news and related programs reminded me of how different things are presented in America from here in Russia. The major differences I noticed were:

First, the reports on international news events were often presented with no reporter actually at the location on which they were reporting. The Syrian conflict was covered more than anything else, but I never saw an American reporter actually in Syria. Obviously I couldn’t watch every network, but the reports would show film clips without interviews on location. Further, the different networks I did watch pretty much followed the same “line” as far as content and commentary. There was little to nothing in the way of trying to get more than one perspective on what was happening.

From here in Russia I’m used to seeing reports on events as they are happening. I follow some English speaking news from people actually there, and the impression I get from Syria is very different from what one sees in America. People in places like Aleppo and Damascus are filmed moving about freely. Frequently I see reporters do random interviews in the streets. What initially surprised me was the fact that their clothes (especially the women) were quite western, not what one usually sees in a middle-eastern, predominantly Islamic country. I’ve also seen interviews with Christian leaders there who are quite relieved that Assad is still the leader of the country. I’ve never seen that view presented on American TV. The only network from America where I have ever seen local interviews were with Pearson Sharp of One America News Network, a network that started in 2013. The only way I could watch it was on youtube, however.

In reporting on domestic news the primary story involved the on-going discussions about Justice Kavanaugh’s nomination to the Supreme Court. One doesn’t have to be a consistent watcher of the news to know that is a very divisive story. I think after being in Russia the nasty ad hominem attacks against him and President Trump seemed even sharper to me (as I explain below). Some of the verbal attacks seemed to have nothing to do with his qualifications. I admit I knew nothing about him, so I liked the few reports I saw of interviews with people who actually knew him and his work. It wasn’t just reports about Kavanaugh that seemed so polemical, however. On almost every domestic issue there seemed to be extreme division, especially if it concerned President Trump in any way. I remembered a quip I recently saw on Facebook, “America has become one giant Jerry Springer show.” It really did seem that way at times! This all seemed different from what I’ve gotten used to in Russia.

It wasn’t just the manner of debates, however. I still heard arguments about the transgender and other “sexual identity” issues. These were being discussed, of course, when we moved in 2016, but they seemed much more prominent now. I saw clips discussing how to refer to “babies” avoiding anything that smacked of imposing a gender on them before they have reached an age when they can decide for themselves. If all you knew was what was on the news one would think proponents of this perspective are the majority. And they believed this issue is of ultimate importance. Not to agree with them on issues related to sexual identity or expression meant complete division. There seemed to be no “middle ground.” It was clear from some comments that for many if there is no agreement on gender or sexual identity and rights, then there is no reason to look for other areas of shared values or ways to work together on anything.

In Russia there are certainly debates and disagreements on political matters and leaders. In comparison to America, however, persons usually stay on the issue and not attack people. (Vladimir Zhirinovsky is the main exception.) Ad hominem attacks are still regarded as weak arguments (as they were in my university philosophy class in America years ago). That isn’t to say Russians don’t ever get angry or emotional over issues, but I sense a stronger attempt at maintaining respect and decorum in public discussions.

My regret in this regard is this tendency has bled into the diplomatic language used by American leaders in discussions about Russia. The late John McCain was highly lauded by invited leaders of both parties as a great man and a “warrior for peace”at his funeral and other memorials recently. I looked up the ways he had described President Putin: “thug,” “killer,” “murderer,” “butcher” were common. Champion of peace and democracy? Nikki Haley, our Ambassador to the UN, has said of Russia (among other things), “Russia will never be our friend, we’ll slap them when needed.” This sounds like something one would hear at recess on an elementary school playground, not in a diplomatic setting. What makes it worse is many people with diplomatic responsibilities speak this way and yet give no evidence of having really studied Russia. Just using the word “friend” indicates an ignorance of what Putin has said and written about international partnerships.

This kind of language is effective in impressing the hard right neocons and other liberal interventionists in America, but historically diplomats have tried to understand other countries and seek ways to solve differences without inflammatory language. The ultimate goal is to solve differences without loss of life. Early on, Ronald Reagan referred to the USSR as the “evil empire.” Later he studied more on Eastern Europe. He sought Jack Matlock to help him understand more of the political and diplomatic world here. He brought in Suzanne Massie regularly to help him understand more about the culture and religion. In a recent article Patrick Buchanan pointed out that before Reagan left office he had walked down the streets of Moscow being cheered and patted on the back. As a result of his authentic and informed diplomacy there would be massive reductions in nuclear arms. The world became a safer place.

Also there is in Russia, compared to America, a greater degree of agreement on just what major issues are. How one “identifies” in terms of sexual orientation or gender identification does not fit in the category of what most Russians consider a “major political issue.” I have read accounts from gay or lesbian persons here who say that if one wants to live such a lifestyle quietly there are usually few problems. The problems arise when the gay community or an individual wants to have a parade or stage public appearances to flaunt their lifestyle. It is often not permitted, especially if there are children around. There is no question that Russia is far more traditional in terms of acceptable public morality than is America. Some people will see that as a positive trait, and others believe this is an example of a backward and intolerant Russian culture.

I return to the evening discussion with my friends from church. Toward the conclusion of the evening, I told them I had tried to be very honest and open about Russia. I had described the many positive developments here, while admitting there are problems yet to be resolved. But, overall, based on my experience here I really do see Russia headed in a direction that will make the country stronger. Polls show a strong majority of Russians see even better days ahead. Social, economic, and political differences are here, but there is in general a larger shared cultural perspective. American reports often focus on the fringe groups in Russia, but this is a misrepresentation of how it is here. I heard Ksenia Sobchak referred to as an “opposition leader in Russia” by more than one American news outlet. She received 1.68% of the total vote in 2018. A person receiving that percentage in America would hardly be referred to as a “leader of the opposition.”

I then told the group I wanted to ask them a question: What about America? I stated very honestly my impressions from our visit. I sensed fragmentation on a number of fronts without an overarching unifying principle. People seem more worried about offending or being offended than finding common ground. I asked them if my perceptions are wrong. If not, what is the solution? As I said, this group was a very thoughtful, well-informed group. But there was a moment when no one spoke. No one contested my perception on the condition in America. Of the responses that followed, there was very little optimism expressed about a good outcome. Some offered that they saw it only getting worse; a few others said a cultural or economic collapse will be the only way toward rebuilding. Someone brought up Orwell’s 1984 as America’s destiny.

The last couple of days of our visit were incredibly enjoyable. We went to the pool; our kids got to enjoy the outdoors of South Carolina. Before we left on Sunday afternoon we thoroughly enjoyed one more Liturgy in English at church and a delightful meal there afterwards. So it was with sadness that we left, although I admit I was anxious to get back to my “routine.” Coming back was hard on our children as well. We all remembered so many good times from our trip and from when we lived in America. We discovered that we tend to remember the good times. Our minds let go of all the struggles we were also enduring during the time we lived there.

You don’t have to go visit America to see our debates, our fights, our values or lack thereof. The world can go on the i-net and see what we argue over and how we debate. They know who Peter Strzok and Brett Kavanaugh are. They’ve seen our justice system at work—with all the corruption and screaming. Many Russians would love to visit America. They see many positive things about it, but they have no desire to have our form of democracy. They will fight to keep it out. Who could blame them?

And now for my opinionated conclusion. I followed as carefully as possible the track of hurricane Florence as it headed toward the Carolinas. Fortunately the damage to the property of my family members living on the coast and other parts of S.C. was not nearly as bad as had been earlier feared. Still, many residents of the Carolinas were hit pretty hard with flooding and now see even more of it as water levels continue to rise. A friend of mine in the S.C. State Guard posted videos of him and his comrades in uniform responding to the needs of those in distress. I saw U.S. Marines from my old duty station, Camp Lejeune, out helping in the same way. I watched other videos posted of many other volunteer organizations and individuals doing whatever they could to help those who experienced the worst of the storm. That is what is great about America.

What cultural refugees like me believe is that if America wants to spread democracy and stop evil empires from arising, they should do it by exporting more of the kind of help I saw after the hurricane. No one discounts the need to have a military prepared to fight to defend our borders. But we have active duty troops stationed in almost 150 countries. Estimates are we have 170,000 active duty troops serving outside the borders of the United States. It is very hard to get concrete figures, but estimates are that America is involved in conflicts in 76 countries. We average dropping a bomb somewhere in the world every 12 minutes. I know the U.S. does humanitarian work and sends aid, but when you’re dropping a bomb somewhere every few minutes that noise drowns out everything. Nations don’t perceive this as “spreading democracy.” I’ve seen first hand how both our media and our leaders distort, twist and lie about life in a country that “is not our friend.” It’s about spreading American hegemony, not democracy. You don’t spread democracy at the point of a gun.

I came to Russia the first time as a part of a group of people who were helping Russian orphanages and churches. They had started back in the dreary days of the nineties. That same group continues to come. Group members collect money and dispense it to the needy children and causes in Russia. They also come here to help build churches and join together in worship. There are no strings attached to the help, and they don’t ask to control anything or anyone. Unfortunately, the majority of the power brokers in America believe that in order for other countries to see the light of American democracy we must threaten to slap them or even bomb them. Somehow in this twisted logic they think if we’re nasty enough and confront them aggressively enough, they will kowtow to us and look gratefully to “the city set on a hill.” I remind people that old vision of America was of a city set on a hill, not a weapons complex. Meanwhile America’s inner turmoil, rage and intellectually vacuous infighting are laid bare for the world to see. My own belief is that getting involved in working with those outside its borders in a way that saves lives may be the only way America can actually save itself.

DOES BEING AN EXPAT MAKE ONE AN EXPERT?

It has been quite some time since my last blog. In the realm of politics Presidents Trump and Putin met in Helsinki. On a personal level our family made our first trip back to the United States since we moved to Russia over two years ago. Now I have taken time for reflections of both a political and personal nature.

The Political. I was a bit excited when I first heard about the summit with Putin and Trump. I realize some don’t care about political events or reflections. I, on the other hand, admit to being slightly on the “political junkie” side of things. More than that, however, decisions between the leaders of these two countries can impact families like us directly—travel plans, financial transactions, etc. So it really isn’t responsible for me to adopt the “I just don’t get into politics” perspective. If you’re an American living in Russia, politics matters.

I actually had prepared a blog before the summit, but I was waiting until after the leaders met before I completed it. Just before the summit I watched how the news outlets in America were preparing the nation. On June 29 I watched an interview with Sebastian Gorka and Daniel Hoffman on FoxNews on how they thought Trump should handle the meeting. It went worse than I feared. Hoffman quickly dispensed with any talk of common objectives and said Trump should look for leverage against Putin. Gorka then assumed the mantle of “expert Russian analyst” and used statistics from at least 12-15 years ago to describe Russia, e.g., male life expectancy, birth/death rate comparisons, etc. Then he said Russia is in “a world of hurt” and “a death spiral.” His figures and general description of Russia were terribly outdated as anyone who casually keeps up with Russia knows. He portrayed Russia and Putin as helpless and vulnerable. The point was clear: Trump needs to exploit a very weak Russia.

Gorka’s reputation as a researcher has been criticized severely going back to when he got his Ph.D. from Corvinus University in Budapest. A quick Google search will show that there are a number of analysts who say his dissertation wouldn’t make a good Bachelor’s thesis. Further, Gorka was brought on by the Trump administration as deputy assistant to the president in January of 2017, but was gone by the end of August. He said he decided to leave because he was undermined by people who were not true believers in the “Make America Great Again” campaign. White House sources said he was told to leave, and security was instructed not to allow him to re-enter the White House. You would think a guy like that would buckle down on his research, but apparently shoddy research does not prevent one from being treated as an expert on American news shows these days. There is a plethora of evidence on Russia’s growth in economic and military strength, as well as positive news on the vast improvements in the health of Russians, as I documented in a recent blog. The two points I got from this interview were: 1)There is no real reason for working with Russia or Putin on shared or mutually beneficial goals. It is all about leverage and control. 2)Russia remains the way it was in the 90s. That is what many like Gorka and Hoffman want America to believe. It’s a lie, but it must be maintained despite the overwhelming evidence to the contrary. Fortunately, Trump was better prepared for the summit than they were for that interview.

A few days later I got even more upset. We were getting ready for our trip to the States, and I was also working on a new Russian language lesson. I went into the kitchen for something, and on our TV was a report by CNN International. I recognized immediately that the person being interviewed was David Remnick, editor of The New Yorker. Remnick was in the middle of a rant describing how bad it is in Russia. Then he launched a broadside against “dictator” Vladimir Putin. Completing his litany of awful things about Putin he then stated that no one in Russia is allowed to hear bad things like he had just said. Putin controls the media, and Russians can’t hear these truths. Now get the picture: I’m in my den in Russia listening to David Remnick tell the viewers that people in Russia can’t hear the points he is making about Putin. I don’t have a special satellite. I get my i-net and TV from the little place across the courtyard which feeds 90% of the people in this small Russian city. One doesn’t need to be an academic to know Remnick is either lying or is totally uninformed.

I should’ve stayed and watched to find out when this interview was made. How recent was it? It really doesn’t matter because when I came here in 2005 I frequently heard Putin criticized on Russian TV as I do now. Remnick and other Western writers like to portray Putin as an old Communist dictator who will not tolerate public criticism. I have a copy of last month’s issue of Pravda (August, 2018), the official publication of the Communist Party of the Russian Federation. They strongly criticize Putin right there on the front page. The interview with Gorka irritated me simply because I know a lot of people who listen to Fox and trust Gorka. On the other hand, I realize many know of Gorka’s reputation as a sloppy researcher. But David Remnick is a great writer and thinker. I remember reading Lenin’s Tomb (and later Resurrection) which were reflections on his time in the USSR when he was with The Washington Post (late 1980s). He is fluent in Russian and has lived here. His observations from that time were quite impressive, and I loved his humorous anecdotes about daily life that I definitely could relate to. How can a writer that sharp be so out of touch? Are he and Gorka just lying because they know that describing Russia as a really horrible place is what is popular these days? Is it just the old J.R. Ewing approach that “once you lose your integrity the rest is easy”? Or have they just gotten lazy and do not want to engage in the complexity of Russian politics and culture as it is today?

Of course, after the summit I heard the rage and broadsides against Trump over the fact he even met with Putin. He had a few defenders, but they were mostly drowned out. In the reports I heard there was no mention of the fact that Trump was doing what U.S. presidents have done since Eisenhower. He met with the President of the country which is the only other major nuclear power, and they had a civil discussion. If Donald Trump was guilty of “treasonous” or “outrageous” actions in doing that, was John F. Kennedy “treasonous” for meeting with Nikita Khrushchev? JFK certainly came out of that summit looking much worse than Trump did with Putin. I knew beforehand Trump would be criticized for meeting with Putin, but I had no idea the reactions would be so ludicrous. The week before the summit I had listened to how Peter Strzok, who had been put in charge of investigating Trump and Hillary Clinton, described Trump in the most vulgar and prejudicial language possible BEFORE his investigation of the election began. He was the FBI’s man in charge of those investigations. And then Trump was denounced for not defending our “intelligence agencies” in the post-summit news conference.

I retreated. As I said, I think I need to keep up with news and politics, but I had reached the end of my proverbial rope. I shut it off. As I have mentioned before I spent most of my adult life in an academic setting. So I decided to turn off the news with its “pseudo-experts” and read something more responsibly academic. I chose Richard Sakwa’s newest book called Russia Against the Rest. I’ve read Sakwa before, and he carefully cites his sources and is very logical in his observations. I needed that.

I got no further than the opening lines to the first chapter (p.11) when I had one of those “Aha!” moments. Sakwa’s observations on those who analyze Russia struck me.

“Competing Cold War narratives have taken on the character of foundational myths. A political myth is a way of freezing a moment in time and imbuing it with permanent significance. A myth in this context is not a falsehood, but a fiction or constructed narrative that provides a certain interpretation of the evidence.”

This insightful section helped me to see that Gorka, Remnick and the rest of their journalistic kin are not really lying, at least as they understand things. There is no “falsification” going on because they really do see Russia as the same as it was during another era. For Gorka, the statistics from the 90s are frozen. There is no need for new research; for Remnick, Russia is still the USSR of 1988 and Putin is just like all the rest. Authentic research runs the risk of creating cognitive dissonance that could be unmanageable for them. Gorka and Remnick represent two opposite ends of the American political spectrum. Gorka is a conservative who appears on FOX and, despite his past run-ins with the White House, is very supportive of Trump. Remnick, who is a typical CNN liberal, sees a monochrome Trump: he is all bad. What joins them is the shared myth of Russia. And they really do believe the myth.

The Personal. When one actually lives in this country you can’t live by myths of any kind. You live in the world here as it is. The “true expat” has to live with the good and bad. By “true expat” I exclude those few, like a couple of families I encountered in St. Petersburg years ago, who did all they could to live in a “bubble” shielded from everyday Russian life. They had jobs around Russians, but really hung out with other expats, had their kids in English schools, went to church or local pubs with others from outside Russia. By true expats, I’m talking about the majority who are folks like me. (As I said in an earlier blog, I prefer the term “cultural refugee,” but it’s a bit too cumbersome.) We choose to live as others in Russia. Some were sent here by an employer, but we’ve all chosen to be a part of Russian life, not establish a quasi-colony from the homeland. We struggle with learning the language; our kids are around other Russian kids at school or church. We don’t pretend to be Russians, but we do try to immerse ourselves in life here. Many of us are married to a Russian spouse, but we all want to be a part of this culture. We loved our lives in America, but our lives are here now.

So now I go to the question which I posed in the title to this blog entry: Does being an expat make one an expert? The short answer is, “No, but…” Obviously I must explain. Simply living here does not make you an expert on Russia in the full sense of that description. You may not be perfectly fluent in Russian or be able to name all the members of the Romanov dynasty. In fact, you may not know the GDP, present military involvements, or inflation rate. Nevertheless, if one is an expat in the sense I have described, you keep up with the news in general, what is available at the store, and how the prices on products vary from week to week. You have a general idea to what degree Vladimir Putin or the Russian government is or is not involved in your life. Thus, you are able to sense the fallacies of the descriptions of Russia by those who are regarded as experts in the West. You don’t need to know the specific statistics to know that Gorka’s description is absurd. I’ve been coming to Russia since 2002 and have lived here for over five of those years. I don’t need to do research to know this country is not in a “world of hurt” or a “death spiral.” Of course, there are problems and poverty, but there are too many new stores and homes being built to call it a death spiral. Living in a small town I can see improvements being made in this city almost every month. Conversations with locals have a far more positive “tone” than before. I know David Remnick is wrong because I have watched a number of programs where those who want to criticize Putin are given plenty of opportunities. Remnick is describing something he wants or needs to be true. Nevertheless, given the fact that so many have so much invested in his analysis being correct, he gets to be the expert.

People like me and my friends do not have a message most of the political and media wags of the larger Western world want to hear. Nevertheless, I still think it is important to do what we can to let people know what it really is like here. I had no idea when I started this blog it would go the way it did. I thought I’d describe personal events and struggles. I intended to talk about politics some, but I figured Russia would fade from the American political scene. I had no idea Russia would remain a featured segment of American political life. So I don’t claim to be an expert, but I know who the experts are. I’ll keep reading Sakwa, Cohen, Doctorow and others whose descriptions and interpretations of Russia are consistent with the experiences of those of us who live here and are helpful to us better understanding what is going. I keep up in general with the Russian stock market, the GDP, export/import figures and the like. I’ll plod along learning the language as best I can. And I listen intently to the “common folk” here. How are their spirits? What do they say about their lives here? Doesn’t make me an expert, but I do believe with work I, and many others like me, can be honest and informed observers and participants in life in Russia who pass on how things really are.

I fully realize that the audience I will reach is not just smaller than those of Gorka and Remnick; my audience is minuscule compared to theirs. So what does someone like me really accomplish? Why bother? After I finished Sakwa’s book I was able to get The Power of Impossible Ideas, by Sharon Tennison (2012). Sharon had contacted me by e-mail several weeks ago. She commended me on my blog and encouraged me to keep it up. I did not know who she was at the time, but we have since corresponded on several occasions, and I have become much more familiar with her work. I hope to meet with her personally next week in St. Petersburg. Back in the 80s Sharon became very concerned over the issue of nuclear destruction. Her book documents her efforts and journey to change the relationship between the U.S. and the Soviet Union. She began doing “Bottom Up Diplomacy.” She founded an NGO which is now called “Center for Citizen Initiatives.” Her book does not paint with a broad brush. She gives details of places, times, names, even sometimes what people were wearing! As I read her accounts of how many Americans joined together with Russians and other Soviets to learn about each other and then after the USSR collapsed how those Americans helped the Russians rebuild their lives, I was amazed. The accounts of “coincidences” of her meeting by chance individuals both in Russia and America who became crucial to her efforts boggled my mind. She met so many people, and so many lives—both Russian and American—were changed. Vladimir Putin would include suggestions from her organization in some of his addresses to the nation. I do not have the energy, ingenuity, or certainly the organizational skills to rise to the level of Sharon Tennison. The book was a tremendous encouragement, however, to do what I can. I have mentioned before living here has impacted me even more on how I view war. War happened here. The Nazis came and took over this town. You can see the places, the pictures, and hear the stories of lives that were destroyed. The next war, if there is one, won’t remain here. The weapons are different. It will include American soil.

I want things like trade and student and cultural exchanges between my two worlds to get back to what they could be. I’d like to see the nations join together to fight the real terrorists. But the thought of a war happening between Russia and America because lies are allowed to drown out truth is not acceptable. I am grateful to Sharon Tennison for reminding me that one person’s efforts are important.

FOOTBALL, POLITICS & LIFE IN RUSSIA

FOOTBALL, POLITICS AND LIFE IN RUSSIA

“FOOTBALL”

I am not sure how closely my American friends have been able to follow the World Cup and the impact of the games on life here in Russia. It has been big! Frankly, I know very little about soccer, aka “football” over here in Russia. (I hate calling soccer “football,” but I’m a minority of one here.) The only soccer games I’ve ever watched was when one of my sons was on the high school team back in South Carolina. I went to every game I could, but I learned almost nothing about the game. My son got a team trophy, but I couldn’t even figure out what “offside” meant. They all were running back and forth all over the field! I guess “football” for me will always be the American version.

The games, however, have had a tremendously positive impact on Russia on more than one level. First, the Russian team was not expected to do well at all. I read one article that said they were something like the 68^th ranked team in that writer’s view. Yet they made it to the quarter finals—and almost won that game. I watched their match against Spain and became a nervous wreck. They won on an unbelieveable save by their goalie. Thus, I did not watch their game against Croatia because it was at night, and I knew I’d get too nervous and lie awake too long. Despite the fact they lost that very close game, the people here were still very proud of their team. Russia had something else to cheer about. In addition to the unity created by pulling for their team, however, there are other “victories” or benefits.

First, there have been financial benefits for Russia. There were some rumblings in a few circles that the government was having to spend too much money on preparing for the games. They suggested the cost was too big a burden on the budget. Most countries, they pointed out, actually lose money on hosting such events. I watched a video of an interview with Sergey Budrunov, the president of the International Union of Economists, as he explained the cost and benefits of the game. (The video can be seen w/ English subtitles and transcript at https://russia-insider.com/en/politics/host-countries-usually-lose-money-world-cup-russia-scores-250-return-russian-tv-news-video). It cost Russia between $10-$11 billion to provide 12 new stadiums, 5,000 miles of new roads, upgrades to already existing roads and making sure airports and other public service locales were ready for the expected crowds. That’s a lot of money and the Federal Govt. would have to provide well over half of it. Big crowds came, however, and the revenues from ticket sales and associated prices to customers will pay for the cost involved. Mr. Budronov said that by the time the games are over the costs will have been recovered. Profits stand to be substantial from the future revenues that will come in through sales tax on shirts, souvenirs, hotels, food, etc. Judging from the clips I’ve seen of fans eating, buying clothes, gifts, parties, etc., that profit should be substantial. Some estimates say Russia will recover 5 times what they spent. Also, the new stadiums, new roads, and upgraded infrastructure will still be in place after the games are over. There will be future profits to be added from these improvements in the years to come.

Second, the bigger pay off, in the opinion of many, is in the area of what I’ll loosely call “Public Relations,” although “International Relations” may actually be more appropriate. There have been many interviews shown here with fans from many countries who testify to how different their experience in Russia has been from what they were told to expect. Most admitted they came here with a significant apprehension because of what they had heard about Russia. Many from the Western countries said they were warned not only of criminals, but also maltreatment they would probably receive from the Russian police and the Russian “hooligans.” In interview after interview we heard from visitors from all over the world praising Russia and the treatment they received here. Some said police did check their documents, but usually with a friendly smile. Several recounted that when taxis were overwhelmed by the crowds they were given free rides from “regular” folks who did not charge them anything and would not take money when offered. Our son Roman went into the “center” of St. Petersburg and said the atmosphere was great. He said from the languages he heard there were more “foreigners” than Russians out in the streets and all seemed to be having a good time. My FB friends who are “real” European football fans reported the same in their experiences at the games and the parties after the games.

It hasn’t been just the fans talking about the dissonance between what they were told to expect and what they actually have experienced, however. I read many reports filed by journalists from outside of Russia reporting on the same phenomenon. The one that surprised me the most was by Steven Goff of The Washington Post. The Washington Post has been one of the “lead dogs” in anti-Russian propoganda production. Goff admits even up until the last moment he was wishing he did not have to go to Russia. His experiences here were not at all what he expected, however. It turned out to be a wonderful experience and his description of Russia is quite different from what one expects to find in The Washington Post. (See https://m.sfgate.com/news/article/After-seeing-Moscow-I-understand-why-FIFA-gave-13004407.php?utm_campaign=fb-mobile&utm_source=CMS+Sharing+Button&utm_medium=social). I have no doubts that the anti-Russian propoganda will continue, but for those who have been paying attention it will be a harder sale. It was gratifying to me and to other Americans living here in Russia to see and hear of the experiences of others who discovered the truth of what we have been saying: the Russia you read about in the main stream Western press is a creation motivated by the political and/or social agendas of the writers.

POLITICS

President Trump is to arrive in Helsinki, Finland soon for his summit with President Putin, so the attention here will move immediately from football to politics. The two leaders have met before, but it has been at conferences or gatherings when leaders from other countries were present as well. This will be the first meeting with just the two of them, their staffs, and the interpretors. On July 16 they have a meeting sheduled between the two of them without aides present. I do not know what to expect. In my next blog, which I’ve almost completed, I will address the issues of how this meeting has been discussed in the Western Press. I will focus on one particular interview. For now, however, I’d like to offer my observations on how Russians and Americans (not politicians, just the women and men in the street) differ in respect to how they carry out political discussions. These are based totally on my experiences and I have no studies to back them up.

First, Americans, as I have said before, tend to get more emotionally involved with a particular politician or leader. They will often ask, “Do you like Trump (or whomever)?” Or say, “I can’t stand him!” Generally in a discussion on politics, Russians are more comfortable talking about the issues with which one may agree or disagree, rather than whether you like the politician. Further, Americans tend to be “all or nothing” about a candidate. If they like Trump, they will support him no matter what. I have several pro-Trump friends. When Trump indicated he might not sign a particular spending bill, one friend told me how bad the spending bill was. Trump changed his mind at the last moment and signed it. My friend responded to someone else criticizing him by showing how the bill was essential to keep the government running. In other words his one point of consistency was his support of Trump. I think Americans see this as loyalty. Others, the “never Trumpers,” are going to be against whatever Trump recommends. This was clear when Justice Kennedy recently retired from the Supreme Court. There were people in the streets, in interviews, on FB, Twitter, etc., before anyone had actually been nominated, proclaiming their opposition to the nominee. Trump would be nominating the person, that was all the information needed.

Russians tend to keep a little “distance” between themselves and any politician. I’m not saying there aren’t people here who feel strongly for or against Putin or other politicians. In general, these feelings are kept “close to the vest,” however. Most people I know voted for Putin. Most people in Russia voted for Putin. The idea, however, that those people agree with him on every point or fall in line with whatever he says is a completely inaccurate interpretation of how things are here. For example, I chatted with my doctor again this week while he was giving me my neck treatment. He’s a great guy, but he would really like to go back to Communist days and the USSR. He was fondly recalling the times of being a doctor and not worrying about having to charge patients for whatever treatments they needed; he cherishes the memory of the comaraderie among the people here that he believes has been lost. He also “lectured” me (he knows I don’t agree with him) about the labor laws which he believes were far superior then. (Unfortunately, he got excited and starting speaking so fast that I missed a couple of his main points due to my inferior Russian listening skills!) He voted for Putin, however, not his Communist opponent. He said he believes Putin has been more effective in implementing correct economic and social policies that have helped Russia come out of the disaster of the Boris Yeltsin horror of the 90s. His heart longs for Russia to return to Communism, but his head realizes that would not be the best route.

My opinion is that there has always been this basic difference, with Americans becoming more animated in political discusions than most Russians. We Americans have always loved our political debates. The election of Donald Trump, however, has intensified it in a way beyond anything prior to 2016. Now it seems every political decision is a “bone of contention.” This was brought home to me when an old friend I had not seen in years contacted me through Facebook. He and I never agreed on politics and would constantly rib each other in a good natured way when we were young men. Now, however, after we talked about the old times a bit, he said some very negative things about Russia and added, “And I don’t like Putin!” I probed him on where he got his information. He became very angry, said I was calling him a liar, and jumped me like I was a Trump troll or something. My own political views on Trump are that when he makes a decision I agree with I’m not ashamed to commend him, but when he makes one I don’t agree with, I’ll blast away. I guess I’ve become more Russian. I neither like nor dislike him. (Although I admit the hair still bothers me.) It became clear to me through this very unpleasant conversation with a friend from over 30 years ago that things are different in America. I think I realized it before, but never reflected on it. I have American friends I really like but with whom I avoid any political discussion at all. You go there with them, and you better be prepared to fight. I go to my Russian doctor every week for a 40 minute treatment and we talk about everything—including politics. He’s an old Communist, and I voted for Ronald Reagan. Yet, we still can have sane and helpful conversations–even if my Russian is not quite fully up to the challenge.

Russians also usually stay on an even keel about political events. They tend not to get to excited when things go bad and neither are they euphoric when events look good. No one here in Luga was riding around blowing their horns or shouting in the streets when Putin got re-elected. Most here were in agreement, but Russians have a history that teaches them not to hope (or despair) based on one leader or one election. Last night I watched a string of Americans (politicians and activists) at some rally deriding the nomination of perspective Justice Kavanaugh. His confirmation, they made clear, would end democracy as we know it. They launched into a string of catastrophic events that would surely follow if he is confirmed. I think the persons who are selected to serve on the Supreme Court are very important. But I’ve lived long enough to see both liberals and conservatives put on the Court, and not one of them has ever had the power to dethrone democracy. I personally think democracy is being dethroned in America, but it is not by any one Supreme Court justice.

Finally, Russians tend not to let one issue impact everything, and they listen to “the other side.” Again, the events surrounding the nomination of Justice Kavanaugh reminded me of this difference. The main issue or point of contention in America based on what I have heard talked about for some time is what his nomination will do to abortion rights. Then it went from, “if he’s confirmed then women can’t have abortions, then it will mean no contraceptives, then all rights of women will be essentially taken away.” That isn’t an exact quote, but—believe it or not—that is essentially what one activist said, and she received cheers and applause for her insights. Abortion is still legal here in Russia, although I pointed out in my last blog it is becoming more infrequent. The Russian Orthodox Church is taking the lead in the trying to stop or at least reduce the number of abortions. They provide financial and other forms of assistance to help women who are thinking of an abortion go ahead and have the baby. Surprising to us they even run anti-abortion commercials through their television network. They don’t attack anyone over the issue. But they make their goals clear. I don’t know if they could do anti-abortion commercials on American TV. The persons who are for abortion here don’t get offended or angry when the other side sets forth their alternatives. They have their reasons, but they are quite willing for both sides to “have their say.” Who would have thought? Freedom of speech is alive and well in Russia.

My hope is that on “the other side” of all this political rancor we are going through in America we will come again to recognizing the ideals which once bound us together. Despite what is shown on TV, I do not believe the majority of Americans want things to be the way they appear on the nightly news. Those people ranting and raging do not represent the Americans I know. To some degree I blame the current leadership. Trump’s tweets get people’s emotions going, and I don’t think they change anyone’s mind. They are calls to the already converted. Then Nancy Pelosi or Chuck Shumer rejoins with responses impregnated with animosity but devoid of intellectual content; now Maxine Waters has given encouragement to harassment and physical confrontation toward those with whom her followers disagree. If Trump says anything positive about Russia and the need to work together one can be sure that Adam Schiff, Lindsey Graham or even the ailing John McCain will make sure people understand that means our President is working for Putin. That is not what I believe most Americans believe or would believe if they had the facts presented to them.

During the World Cup games a reporter happened upon an old Russian man with a basket of crocheted items, e.g., little figurines of football players and other small tokens. He said he had learned to crochet from his grandmother when he was a little boy. He had made these little items to come and give to the people visiting from other countries so they would remember Russia. Another young man brought little jars with jelly his grandmother had made for the same reason. Americans, they won’t show you that on the evening news. Somehow even with 24 hour news coverages, there is no time for stories like these to be shown in America. Those media types and the politicians want to convince you of the evil that is here in Russia and the evil that is in those on the other side of the political debates. They want to appeal to a darker side. I am no Pollyanna. There is evil in the world. But the great Russian writer Alexander Solzhenitsyn, who suffered more than I can imagine, reminds us of the true nature and location of evil:

“Gradually it was disclosed to me that the line separating good and evil passes not through states, nor between classes, nor between political parties either — but right through every human heart — and through all human hearts. This line shifts. Inside us, it oscillates with the years. And even within hearts overwhelmed by evil, one small bridgehead of good is retained. And even in the best of all hearts, there remains … an unuprooted small corner of evil.”